Installation
Battlefield style
Standard installation assumes a 1' overlap at each end of the rails (8' rails make a 6' section, etc.). For aesthetic reasons, especially on 8'rails, you may prefer a little less overlap (say, 8").
I'd lay out a little fence, say five or six sections, before you get started on installation, just to get the general look of the fence. Lay the first course out, "zig-zagging" back and forth about a foot or so. There are two ways of stacking the fence.
If you lay the fence in order (sections #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6), all the rails will rest at a slight angle. If you lay the fence in staggered order (sections #1, #3, #5, #2, #4, #6), all the rails will be level (or parallel to the ground) with every other section stepping either up or down. I generally prefer the latter - it's up to you.
Stack the fence up to its final height, minus the top rail (4 rails high for a 5-rail fence). If a rail doesn't look "right", spin it, flip it end for end, move it up or down or to a different section of the fence. Now lay two posts in the form of an X over the junction of each rail section, driving the posts 6"-8" into the ground, enough to keep them from tipping over. Lay the top rail between the tops of the crotch of the crossed posts. That's it. (For a lower profile fence, the posts can be eliminated, provided the "zig-zag" is increased to at least 18" to maintain the stability of the fence.)
The rails vary in a number ways - thick, thin, flat, square, twisted, tapered, etc. I usually start with a heavy or twisted rail on the bottom, a couple of pretty looking ones second and third, thin ones fourth, and medium sized straight or tapered rails for the top. No thin ones on the top - they're going to get leaned on. Tapered rails also work great on the ends where you finish without a post.
For a more permanent installation, you'll need to nail the rails and posts into place, using 8"-9" pole barn spikes. (Try to mix up the section lengths rather than cluster all the same lengths together. If a junction lands too close to a tree or some other obstacle, change the lengths of a couple sections leading up to it to work your way around the obstacle). Laying out the first course of rails, pre-drill (slightly smaller than the nail) and nail the rails together at each junction.
Place a stone (4"-6" thick) or some other spacer under the rails at each junction. This gets the bottom rail up off the ground (increasing the longevity of the fence in wet environments. Stack the second course on the first, then pre-drill and nail the second course to the first. Continue until all but the top rail is installed. Lay the posts in place as before, driving them 6"-12" into the ground, and lay in the top rail. Nail each post into the top of the stacked rails, and nail the top rails to each post (pre-drill first).
At this point, I usually do a finish cut on the tops of the posts, anywhere from 6" to 12" above the top rail, one longer than the other (see brochure). If you're not sure about this, wait a few days and get used to looking at the fence. You can always cut some more off later, but you can't grow it back if you cut 'em too short.
